A very special trip to Jordan – 12 tips
A very special trip to Jordan – 12 tips
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Have we told you guys yet that we love Jordan? I think we have many times. This country really blew us away. We honestly can not find a bad word to say about our experience in Jordan. Although we had only 5 days in Jordan due to crossing the border from Israel to Jordan, we had the best time and were able to experience a lot of beautiful things. We really want to give you some special tips and secret
For a really small country located between Israel, Saudi Arabia, Irak, and Syria, it has so much to offer. Despite bad headlines from the neighboring countries, Jordan managed to be safe and stable for many years now. We were totally surprised by the diversity we found: lonely orange deserts, the ancient city Petra, the hilly and meager landscape we saw on our road trip through the original Jordan villages, the beautiful dead sea, and ahhh-mazing food.
We spent a jam-packed 5 days in Jordan, but we highly recommend to stay longer, at least 1 week, because there is a lot more to explore. Depending on how much you like to explore you can surely extend your journey to 2 weeks. Read on to see where we stayed and what we did for our road trip in Jordan.
Some helpful advice to start your trip
Here are a couple of things that might be helpful in the very beginning. If you are only looking to travel to Jordan we highly recommend flying directly to either Amman in the north or to Akaba in the south. We traveled to Jordan crossing the Israel border because of really cheap “error fare” flights I found. If you are not planning to spend a few days in Israel as well, it will take you too long getting these stamps at the border. We also informed us a lot about safety in Jordan, and that´s what we found and truly felt on our trip: this place is an absolutely save the country! Especially as a woman I felt never afraid.
We explored everything on our own by renting a car with Thrifty and doing a road trip from the south to the north and back again to the south. A few policemen controlled us on the streets, but only to ensure the tourist safety. It is nothing you have to be afraid of! They even aren´t corrupt or asking for money or something like that. It is helpful to buy the Jordan Pass previously because the immigration at the border will be a lot faster and you will save a lot of money at the attractions (you can buy it on the internet: www.jordanpass.jo).
1. First stop: Crossing the border between Israel and Jordan
After arriving at the airport Ovda Eilat in Israel in the middle of the desert, we took an airport shuttle straight to Eilat city and to the border. We already had a spectacular view from the airplane along the mountains between Israel and Jordan enclosing the dead sea. Keep in mind there are 2 airports in Eilat! Because Israel is very small in the south, we drove all the way along the Egypt border on the right and the view over Jordan on the left. There was nothing then a fence and sand. Together with a nice Polish couple, we managed the border very well.
The Israel border worked really fast, after examining our luggage, controlling our bodies and paying around 25 Euros on a counter we were able to pass the strange road between Israel and Jordan. All eyes on us :). On the Jordan border, we took a lot longer! We had to wait in different rooms, again and again, to get those stamps in our passport and Jordan pass. The men at the border aren´t the nicest men – however, we managed it. Israel gave us a special paper with a stamp, while Jordan gave us three stamps in our passports. On the Israel border, we could pay with credit card, Euros or Dollars.
Everywhere were exchange houses. The border took us 2 hours until we took a cap straight to Akaba. The cap drivers like to wind you up at the border. There is a sign saying a cap costs 8 Dollars, they try to charge every person. We managed to get a cap together with the other couple for 15 JD.
Ovda Eilat to the border (Israel): Flo Shuttle around 10 Euro
Crossing the border: 25 Euro
Jordan
Cab border to Akaba city (Jordan): 7,50 Euro
2. Head on to Petra – the ancient city
After arriving in Akaba we got our car for the road trip at the Thrifty shop, we booked with Car del Mar. It is located directly in the center next to the tourist information. They worked very professionally and we had no problems at all.
Actually, we wanted to see Petra by night this day, but the border took too long, we missed it. However, I would highly recommend going there, if you stay in Petra on a Monday, Wednesday or Thursday at 8:30 pm. It was already dark when we drove to Petra, but it wasn´t a problem at all. The streets are really good and had no traffic at all. After driving the Kings Highway on the bigger streets we turned into smaller roads and through beautifully looking mountains until we reached the ancient city and our hotel for the night. Dating back more than 2000 years, Petra was an important part of the Silk Route to China and India but was abandoned at some time around the 12th century. It was only known to locals for hundreds of years until it was rediscovered by the West in 1812.
Rent a car at : Thrifty/ book with Car del Mar (full insurance, 30 Euro per day)
Stay at: La Maison, Petra (52 Euro per night, in the middle of the city, clean and friendly)
3. Exploring Petra – one of the 7 wonders of the world
We reached Petra at 7 am in the morning, a few people were already there, however it was an amazing calm atmosphere not comparable to the midday. Go there as early as you can – at 10 am it is really really crowded! We followed the path through the Siq – a 70-meter high gorge. The red tones are absolutely lovely there. We were totally surprised when we suddenly saw “Al-Khazneh”, also called The Treasury facade shining through the rocks. This old building was absolutely stunning. With a little Jordan boy, we climbed up the hills in front of the Treasury and we had literally the best view from there. The little boy got 8 Dollars for helping us up, but you can also hike on your own for free.
After that, we walked down the Siq behind the Treasury. The beautiful old buildings have a lower floor level than the walking path. After passing an amphitheater, we made our way to the burial chambers up on the hill. We then walked along the relict of a big temple, and a lot of steps up to Ad Deir / The Monastery. In the morning it is pretty relaxed there, without any sellers and the facade looks similar to the famous Treasury. There is a beautiful spot in the rocks to look at the building. On your way down you should stop at a mountain platform with a great view to the rocks and get a drink and some bananas at the restaurants. At 2 pm it was absolutely crowded and carriages, donkeys and camels transport the tourists from A to B. Please don´t use them, they are treated very badly!!
Petra entrance: free with Jordan Pass
Tip: Go as early as you can – it opens at 6 am
Best Viewpoint: Hike up the hills in front of the Treasury (guided 8 Dollars / free on your own)
Where to go: Siq, high viewpoint in front of the Treasury, the less crowded El Deir!, if you like to hike Little Petra
Please: Don´t use the little donkeys, you can explore everything by foot (they are treated very badly!!)
4. The Dead Sea – a special experience from Petra to 430 meters under sea level
I highly recommend doing a road trip in Jordan! We passed so many beautiful roads on our way from Petra to the dead sea while driving the famous Kings Highway, the old trade route. It isn´t a big street at all and leads through little original Jordan villages. The kids will wave their arms ;). We drove through stunning mountain landscape, we actually felt like being on Mars. If you get hungry – you should buy a few snacks at one of the many little supermarkets in the middle of nowhere. Probably you will have a great small talk with the owner ;).
From the mountains, you have to drive all the curved roads down to the Dead Sea. From here you have a wonderful view over the Israel mountains. At first, you will pass some salty parts. We drove straight to Wadi Mujib Chalets because they have a bathing access with an outdoor shower. Probably you should not take a swim if there isn´t a shower, otherwise, you will feel painful afterward. Don´t shave before swimming in the dead sea and try to protect your eyes. The dead sea is located at -430 meters under sea level and because of the high salt content you are not able to sink :). We were very lucky to take a bath in the sunset with a very special view of the Israel mountains.
5. Wadi Mujib and a special restaurant
Besides taking a bath in the dead sea, Wadi Mujib offers a wonderful trail through the canyon. Unfortunately, it was already closed when we were there. It is open from April to October. Be prepared for a half day tour wading through waist-high water – but I heard it is totally worth it! Instead, I really like to give you a special tip for a wonderful restaurant we discovered at the dead sea. They are the most friendly and welcoming people I´ve met, they grow their food themselves, they have social projects, it is ecological, they offer traditional vegetarian Jordan meals, do I have to say more?
Look for a building with a roof terrace next to the road called Al Numeira Environmental Association / NEA local food. For 7 JD per person, we got some really nice traditional meal: salad with cucumber, paprika, chili and spinach and hummus with pistachios, as well as tomato hotpot with beans and housemade bread. The owner explained to us the wonderful social concept and invited us to meet all his friends. After eating together with another German couple we found ourselves in between a lot of Jordan people who treated us like special stars. Be prepared to get some new friends and new phone numbers ;).
Stay at: Wadi Mujib Chalets with swimming access
What to do: Wadi Mujib trail, swimming in the dead sea
Where to eat: Al Numeira Environmental Association / NEA local food (65, Feifa)!!!
6. Dana Nature Reserve
In the evening we headed back South along the mountain roads to Dana Nature Reserve. We drove to Dana town, where we had to wait on a rooftop tent until 12 pm due to power failure. It was pretty windy, felt like a mountain in Nepal, luckily we got some warm tea. A driver with his two sons brought us to the remote Wadi Dana Eco-Camp with the best view in the morning! We got a wonderful Bedouin tent, very simple but special! Looking out of our tent we had the Dana canyon directly in front of us. The starry sky was amazing and we got 6 warm blankets. In the morning we had the best view for sunrise! We walked the way back to Dana town passing cute flocks of sheep.
Sleep at: Wadi Dana Eco-Camp: 45 Dollar per night
Tip: There are several hiking trails starting at Dana Nature Reserve. I heard there is also a hiking trail from Dana to Petra
7. Next stop: desert time – Wadi Rum
Early in the morning, we drove from Dana all the way back south to Wadi Rum. We again passed the wonderful mountain roads of the Kings Highway. After passing Petra again we finally arrived at the tourist information in Wadi Rum. We could already see the desert with the famous rocks. We had to show our Jordan pass and got a free entry again. After the tourist information, you can drive 4 kilometers further to the Wadi Rum Village in your own car. At the parking space, we were already asked which provider we booked. Immediately our friend and tour manager in black robe welcomed us, a friendly Jordan man with a very special charisma named Abdullah Daifullah. Our guide collected us and tucked the luggage away in his jeep. We booked the tour with classicwadirum-tours, a very good organization reachable by WhatsApp all the time. Our tour included a day tour with a Jeep, cooking in the desert, one overnight stay in the Aicha Luxury Camp with lunch and breakfast, a camel ride in the morning sun and the morning transport back to our car.
Book at: classicwadirum-tours, 120 JD (148 Euro) per person for 6 hour Jeep tour + overnight camp + dinner + Jeep back to Wadi Rum Village the next morning
Stay at: Memories Aicha Luxury Camp (or any other wonderful camp)
Camel Ride: Just ask the tour manager, 10 JD
Start point: Wadi Rum Village
8. Cooking in the desert
Our guide Edouin welcomed us and had everything prepared for cooking in the desert. We climbed up on the roof of his Jeep and he drove us through the desert. It was
At first, we collected some wood and made a fire. Our guide taught us, how to prepare a traditional Jordan meal while cutting the tomatoes. We cooked some tomato hotpot with onions, garlic, chili, beans, hummus, and flatbread. We had such a wonderful experience cooking all together over the fire with this Jordan man in the middle of the desert, there was no one else! Afterward, he prepared tea for us. I highly recommend our guide, because he not only showed us the touristic places but also very special places no one else visited. He showed us a secret place surrounded by all the mountains and the best place for sunset ;). We could even try driving with his Jeep. We decided to stay friends after this wonderful time together.
9. Night sky at the Desert Camp
The desert camp is located perfectly! Far away from the village and totally isolated in the middle of the desert. They welcomed us friendly and we got a wonderful luxury camp. After our simple tent in Dana, we decided to try something special. All the pattern, ornaments, and oriental lamps – I totally fell in love with the Middle East. The dinner was prepared in a big beautiful tent and offered everything you can wish for! We observed all the thousands of stars on the desert sky until we heard Arabic music. Our tour guide asked us for a dance and without realizing what was happening we spend the evening dancing Arabic dances hooked in with the Jordan people and drinking tea. What a perfect day! I am still fascinated!
10. Camel Ride in the desert
In the early morning, we enjoyed the sunrise at the red dune in front of our camp. Our friend Abdullah organized a camel ride with a Bedouin for the next morning. After breakfast, the Bedouin waited with his camels “FouFou” and “Shahin” in front of the camp. The Bedouin man was really nice, and let us made a lot of beautiful pictures with the camel, as well as riding the camel on our own. It wasn´t that easy to get the perfect picture, ´cause FouFou was very hungry ;). But these animals were treated very well by the Bedouin guy and they were very friendly. It got hotter and hotter – there was not a single cloud on the sky. Because we missed the shuttle to the village, Abdullah said: “My friends, I make you a gift, I give you my own car”. He is an amazing guy!
11. Akaba and crossing the border to Israel
Finally, we drove back to Akaba and gave back our car, the guys from Thrifty were absolutely amazing and drove us to the border. The way back to Israel happened very quickly! They asked us a few questions and checked everything. We were even allowed to film in between the borders. We got to know two amazing filmmakers who filmed a Star Wars Teaser in Wadi Rum for the last two weeks. These guys told amazing stories :). From the Israel border, we took the Flo Shuttle to Akaba city and to the Ovda Airport. Be there early, this airport is a mess, we almost couldn´t take off before the airport was closed for the night.
12. More time left?
We totally fell in love with Jordan and the Middle East and we will probably come back soon! Jordan has the perfect mix to explore: deserts, the dead sea, the temples and ruins, the Middle East culture, wonderful hiking trails. There are a few things we had to skip due to the few days we had:
- I would highly recommend visiting Amman in the North as well! It offers beautiful temples and the King Abdullah Mosque
- Go snorkeling or diving in the Red Sea in Akaba
- Do all the hikes around Petra, Dana to Petra, and especially the Wadi Mujib trail through the watered canyon
- Petra by night
- Roman Ruins in Jerash
Follow our journey on Instagram